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K-Beauty’s next chapter: The rise of dermacosmetics

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Dermocosmetics are evolving into an everyday skincare category for consumers who value efficacy, research and trust. At OLIVE YOUNG, sales have grown 24% annually since 2020, with first-quarter sales this year up 205% from 2020. OLIVE YOUNG has launched Advanced Derma, bringing the expertise of Korean pharmaceutical and dermatology-based brands to everyday skincare, with plans to expand to its Pasadena store and U.S. online store.

Once considered a niche and somewhat intimidating category, dermacosmetics were largely associated with European brands such as Avène, La Roche-Posay, and Bioderma. Even for beauty enthusiasts, the terminology and product names could feel unfamiliar, and the category was often seen primarily as a solution for sensitive or compromised skin. 


That perception is changing.


Hands hold an open jar of cream while fingers dip into the product.


Today, consumers are looking beyond the idea of “gentle” skincare. They want to know what ingredients are in a product, how those ingredients can address their specific skin concerns, and what research and testing went into developing it. The criteria for choosing skincare have expanded beyond texture, packaging, and brand recognition to include ingredients, efficacy, and trust.


The numbers reflect this shift. At OLIVE YOUNG, dermacosmetics sales have grown by an average of 24% annually since 2020, while first-quarter sales this year increased 205% compared with 2020. The number of first-time dermacosmetics buyers continues to grow, as does the number of brands entering the category.


Search trends tell a similar story. Among the fastest-rising skincare search keywords on the OLIVE YOUNG online store during the first half of this year were functional ingredients such as silk peptide, EGF, niacinamide, madecassoside powder, and tranexamic acid. The growing interest in these ingredients signals a broader shift: dermacosmetics are moving beyond a specialized category for a select group of consumers and toward the center of the skincare conversation.

Dermacosmetics are changing

Dermacosmetics began with a focus on gentle care for sensitive skin. They were often associated with products that consumers with weakened skin barriers or frequent breakouts could use with confidence. But the category is now expanding beyond specific skin concerns to become part of everyday skincare routines designed to maintain overall skin condition.


A person applies white cream to their cheek with their fingers.


This evolution can also be seen in consumer reviews. An analysis of dermacosmetics review keywords at OLIVE YOUNG found that terms related to “breakouts” and “acne” were prominent in 2023 and 2024. By 2025, the conversation had expanded to include a broader range of skin concerns, including “barrier,” “pores,” “sebum,” and “refining.” Notably, the keyword “daily” also emerged, signaling a new relationship between consumers and the category.


The shift is significant. Dermacosmetics are no longer products consumers turn to only after a skin concern appears. They are increasingly becoming part of the ongoing effort to maintain healthy skin. As consumers become more specific about their individual concerns and more consistent in their approach to skincare, the role of dermacosmetics is expanding with them.

From European dermacosmetics to K-dermacosmetics

The competitive landscape is changing, too. For years, European brands with long-standing research heritage dominated the dermacosmetics market. More recently, Korean pharmaceutical companies and brands with roots in dermatology clinics and hospitals have been rapidly gaining ground.


The strength of K-dermacosmetics lies in bringing expertise built in professional settings into products designed for everyday use. Brands with clinical and dermatological heritage, such as AESTURA and ZEROID, are drawing on their experience in professional skin care to develop products that can be incorporated into daily routines. Pharmaceutical-backed brands are also expanding their dermacosmetics offerings, advancing their approach to ingredients, functions, and formulations.


The result is a category that combines professional expertise with greater accessibility, bringing specialized knowledge closer to consumers’ everyday lives.

Bringing professional care into everyday routines

One of the key trends shaping the dermacosmetics market is the growing demand for aftercare. As interest in professional skin treatments grows alongside the rise of medical tourism, consumers are also paying more attention to how they can maintain their skin condition after a procedure or treatment.


Professional care is rarely a one-time experience. What happens afterward matters, too. Consumers are increasingly focused on soothing skin following treatment, supporting a weakened skin barrier, and maintaining healthy skin over time. What they are looking for is not simply a gentle product, but one that combines a sense of expertise with the ease of everyday use.


Products traditionally used in professional settings were often designed around specific purposes and environments, requiring careful consideration of where and how they should be used. A new generation of K-dermacosmetics is taking the expertise developed in these professional settings and adapting it for daily life, with a greater emphasis on convenience and usability.


In other words, the category is evolving to bridge the gap between professional treatment and everyday skincare.

OLIVE YOUNG’s take: Advanced Derma

Recognizing these shifts, OLIVE YOUNG introduced the Advanced Derma category in Korea earlier this year, bringing together Korean dermacosmetics brands that offer more specialized skin care solutions. The category was created in response to growing interest in professional skin care and increasing demand for targeted products tailored to individual skin concerns. 



A skincare store displays beauty products beneath signs for active skin care and advanced derma.

Advanced Derma brings together products developed in collaboration with Korean pharmaceutical-backed brands. The category combines the research capabilities, ingredient expertise, and clinically grounded credibility associated with pharmaceutical and dermatology-based brands with formulations designed to fit seamlessly into everyday routines.


The goal is not simply to offer stronger efficacy or create a more professional image. It is about connecting consumers with expertise developed in professional settings and making that knowledge accessible as part of everyday skincare.


While products used in professional care are often designed for specific situations and purposes, with precise dosages and usage instructions, Advanced Derma reinterprets that expertise in a cosmetic format that can become part of a daily skincare routine.

Bridging the gap between professional care and everyday skincare is the new direction Advanced Derma is bringing to dermacosmetics.


OLIVE YOUNG plans to introduce Advanced Derma products at its Pasadena store and online store in the U.S. The U.S. store will also offer “Skincare Lessons,” which will use Skin Scan diagnostic results to recommend personalized aftercare routines.

The next chapter of K-Beauty

K-Beauty, and OLIVE YOUNG alongside it, has consistently evolved by identifying new categories that reflect changing consumer needs. From toner pads and inner beauty to W-care and functional skincare, dermacosmetics are now emerging as another category with significant potential for growth.


As consumers move beyond simply looking for “good ingredients” and begin seeking ingredients with proven benefits, while prioritizing consistent care over temporary improvements, the role of K-dermacosmetics is likely to continue expanding.


In particular, Advanced Derma, which combines the professional expertise of pharmaceutical and dermatology-based brands with the convenience of everyday skincare, has the potential to establish itself as a new K-Beauty category not only in Korea but also on the global stage.


We are entering an era in which research and technology developed in dermatology clinics are making their way onto bathroom counters and into everyday routines. Dermacosmetics are no longer simply an option for sensitive skin. They are becoming a new standard for maintaining healthy skin, one day at a time.